Once upon a time, Emeril posted this seasoning recipe on the web. He now sells a commercial product, so if you don't want to make it, buy it.
2 1/2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon dried leaf oregano
1 tablespoon dried leaf thyme
Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight container. Makes about 2/3 cup. I omit the salt and we like it a whole lot better that way.
Monday, January 23, 2006
Gumbo
Roux
1 part white flour--Wondra makes the easiest roux
1 part bacon grease (do not use olive oil)
Heat the fat in a large caset iron skillet over medium heat. Add the flour gradually, stirring constantly. The roux will continue to darken after it has been removed from the flame so take it off the heat a little before it is light-coffee colored. Cool slightly.
Stock:
I keep a bag in the freezer where I toss in the stock ingredients as I have them left over from other projects.
2 gallons filtered spring water (chlorine and such have no place in soup!)
chicken bones, backs, necks browned in oven and added to stock pot
shrimp heads and shells
Onions
Celery
Carrots
Garlic
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
parsley stems
1 bayleaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried basil leaves
Simmer in crock pot and refrigerate over night. Skim off fat. Strain all the solids out through a cheese-cloth-lined strainer before reheating.
Soup:
4 tablespoons roux (more if you want it thicker and richer)
1 sweet bell pepper, chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 whole chicken cut up or equivalent in thighs
2 pounds okra, more if you love it as much as I do
2 large onions, chopped
2 pounds smoked andouille sausage, cut in to 1/2-3/4 inch chunks
1 bunch green onions, chopped, tops only
1 bunch Italian flat-leafed parsley, chopped
salt, black pepper, cayenne
Method
In a very large pot, boil two quarts of the stock. Once boiling rapidly, add the roux which will foam up rapidly. Add the rest of the water, slowly, stirring constantly. Saute the onions, bell pepper, garlic in bacon grease and add, along with salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Adjust the seasonings to your taste. Add the chicken and simmer half an hour. Add okra and continue to simmer until chicken is tender and okra is no longer gooey. Add smoked andouille, green onions and parsley, simmer a few minutes and serve over steamed rice.
If you want a seafood gumbo, add shrimp, mussels and lump crab (or whole blue crab) and simmer 3 minutes or until shrimp are pink and mussels opened fully. Discard any mussels that do not open. Then continue to add the smoked andouille, green onions and parsley and simmer a few minutes and serve over steamed rice.
1 part white flour--Wondra makes the easiest roux
1 part bacon grease (do not use olive oil)
Heat the fat in a large caset iron skillet over medium heat. Add the flour gradually, stirring constantly. The roux will continue to darken after it has been removed from the flame so take it off the heat a little before it is light-coffee colored. Cool slightly.
Stock:
I keep a bag in the freezer where I toss in the stock ingredients as I have them left over from other projects.
2 gallons filtered spring water (chlorine and such have no place in soup!)
chicken bones, backs, necks browned in oven and added to stock pot
shrimp heads and shells
Onions
Celery
Carrots
Garlic
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked
parsley stems
1 bayleaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried basil leaves
Simmer in crock pot and refrigerate over night. Skim off fat. Strain all the solids out through a cheese-cloth-lined strainer before reheating.
Soup:
4 tablespoons roux (more if you want it thicker and richer)
1 sweet bell pepper, chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 whole chicken cut up or equivalent in thighs
2 pounds okra, more if you love it as much as I do
2 large onions, chopped
2 pounds smoked andouille sausage, cut in to 1/2-3/4 inch chunks
1 bunch green onions, chopped, tops only
1 bunch Italian flat-leafed parsley, chopped
salt, black pepper, cayenne
Method
In a very large pot, boil two quarts of the stock. Once boiling rapidly, add the roux which will foam up rapidly. Add the rest of the water, slowly, stirring constantly. Saute the onions, bell pepper, garlic in bacon grease and add, along with salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Adjust the seasonings to your taste. Add the chicken and simmer half an hour. Add okra and continue to simmer until chicken is tender and okra is no longer gooey. Add smoked andouille, green onions and parsley, simmer a few minutes and serve over steamed rice.
If you want a seafood gumbo, add shrimp, mussels and lump crab (or whole blue crab) and simmer 3 minutes or until shrimp are pink and mussels opened fully. Discard any mussels that do not open. Then continue to add the smoked andouille, green onions and parsley and simmer a few minutes and serve over steamed rice.
Red Beans and Rice
Red Beans and Rice
4 quarts water or chicken stock (preferred)
1 lb small red beans (soaked overnight)
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 bunch green onions, sliced, tops and bulb
6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/2 cup flat leafed Italian parsley, minced
2 cups celery, sliced
1/2 cup tomato sauce or catsup
1 sweet bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon Worchestershire sauce
2 tablespoons Louisiana Hot sauce (or chipotle, which adds a smokey flavor)
2 whole bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 pounds smoked Andouille sausage (cooked and thinly sliced)
1/2 to 1 pound pickled pork (cut in 1" cubes and rinsed, or substitute smoked ham hocks
Cooked rice
Drain soaked beans and cover with boiling water or stock, add ham hock and simmer until beans are tender. If the ham is salty, taste beans before salting. Keep beans covered with stock at all times. Skim any foam off the top of the pot. Saute the onions, garlic and celery until translucent. Saute the bell pepper. Add the sauted vegetables and the remaining ingredients, except Andouille sausage, to the bean pot, except rice and simmer on low about an hour. Adjust seasonings. Add Andouille sausage and heat through. Remove bay leaves. Serve over rice with chipotle sauce on the side for those people who want to heat things up a bit more.
4 quarts water or chicken stock (preferred)
1 lb small red beans (soaked overnight)
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 bunch green onions, sliced, tops and bulb
6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/2 cup flat leafed Italian parsley, minced
2 cups celery, sliced
1/2 cup tomato sauce or catsup
1 sweet bell pepper, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon Worchestershire sauce
2 tablespoons Louisiana Hot sauce (or chipotle, which adds a smokey flavor)
2 whole bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 pounds smoked Andouille sausage (cooked and thinly sliced)
1/2 to 1 pound pickled pork (cut in 1" cubes and rinsed, or substitute smoked ham hocks
Cooked rice
Drain soaked beans and cover with boiling water or stock, add ham hock and simmer until beans are tender. If the ham is salty, taste beans before salting. Keep beans covered with stock at all times. Skim any foam off the top of the pot. Saute the onions, garlic and celery until translucent. Saute the bell pepper. Add the sauted vegetables and the remaining ingredients, except Andouille sausage, to the bean pot, except rice and simmer on low about an hour. Adjust seasonings. Add Andouille sausage and heat through. Remove bay leaves. Serve over rice with chipotle sauce on the side for those people who want to heat things up a bit more.
Crab Stuffed Grilled Portobello Mushrooms
Crab Stuffed Grilled Portobello Mushrooms
4 large portobello mushrooms, wiped clean, stems removed
olive oil to coat mushrooms
For sauce:
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup flour
3/4 cup chicken broth
1/3 cup dry white wine
3 ounce package cream cheese
For stuffing:
1 (7 1/2 ounce) can crabmeat, drained and flaked
1/4 cup onion, minced
1/2 cup fine bread crumbs
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
Dash white pepper
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Brush mushrooms with olive oil, grill.
In saucepan melt 3 tablespoons butter; blend in flour, milk, broth and wine. Cook and stir until mixture thickens and bubbles. Cool slightly and stir in cream cheese, continuing to stir until melted. (You can substitute heavy cream, but be careful not to curdle it over too-high heat.) Set aside.
In skillet, sweat onions until transparent but not browned. Stir in crabmeat, breadcrumbs, parsley, and pepper.
Divide crab mixture in to four portions. Place 1/4 in the center of each grilled mushroom in broiler-proof dish. Cover with cheese sauce and sprinkle with mozzarella cheese and paprika and place under broiler for 2-5 minutes until cheese melts and sauce is bubbly.
4 large portobello mushrooms, wiped clean, stems removed
olive oil to coat mushrooms
For sauce:
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup flour
3/4 cup chicken broth
1/3 cup dry white wine
3 ounce package cream cheese
For stuffing:
1 (7 1/2 ounce) can crabmeat, drained and flaked
1/4 cup onion, minced
1/2 cup fine bread crumbs
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
Dash white pepper
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Brush mushrooms with olive oil, grill.
In saucepan melt 3 tablespoons butter; blend in flour, milk, broth and wine. Cook and stir until mixture thickens and bubbles. Cool slightly and stir in cream cheese, continuing to stir until melted. (You can substitute heavy cream, but be careful not to curdle it over too-high heat.) Set aside.
In skillet, sweat onions until transparent but not browned. Stir in crabmeat, breadcrumbs, parsley, and pepper.
Divide crab mixture in to four portions. Place 1/4 in the center of each grilled mushroom in broiler-proof dish. Cover with cheese sauce and sprinkle with mozzarella cheese and paprika and place under broiler for 2-5 minutes until cheese melts and sauce is bubbly.
Wednesday, January 11, 2006
Focaccia from Puglia
Focaccia from Puglia
Ingredients:
1/2 pound small boiling potatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water, 105 to 115 degrees F.
1 cup water, room temperature
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 1/3 cups (500 grams) durum (hard wheat) flour
2 teaspoons sea salt
Topping:
3 tablespoons first cold pressed, extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
Method:
Peel the potatoes and boil them until they are tender. Drain and press them through a ricer. Use the potatoes while they are still warm about 105 to 115 degrees. Using them too hot will kill the yeast.
Whisk the yeast into the warm water in a large mixer bowl and let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in the room-temperature water and the olive oil.
Add the mashed potatoes, salt, and 1 cup of flour at a time and mix with the paddle blade so that the dough comes together well. Using a flexible cutting sheet aids in pouring the flour in to the bowl. Always stop mixer before adding dry ingredients to avoid a cloud.
Knead with dough hook for 5 to 6 minutes until the dough is velvety, elastic, smooth, and a bit sticky. You may need to scrape the sides of the bowl.
Finish kneading by hand for 1 minute on a lightly floured bench so that the dough loses its stickiness.
Place the dough in a lightly oiled container, cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled, about an hour.
When the dough has risen, divide in half and pat each half in to a round on a peel or on a semolina-dusted baking sheet. Dimple with fingertips, oil and salt. Let rise, covered, until nearly doubled again.
Top with cheese or your choice of other toppings like olives, roasted red peppers, artichokes, pancetta, etc.
Slide dough rounds on to heated pizza stone in a 400 degree oven, or slide baking sheet on to lowest rack in oven and bake until golden brown and the edges and bottom are crispy. Spritzing the oven with a water mist in the early stages of baking aids in forming a good crust.
Ingredients:
1/2 pound small boiling potatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water, 105 to 115 degrees F.
1 cup water, room temperature
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 1/3 cups (500 grams) durum (hard wheat) flour
2 teaspoons sea salt
Topping:
3 tablespoons first cold pressed, extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
Method:
Peel the potatoes and boil them until they are tender. Drain and press them through a ricer. Use the potatoes while they are still warm about 105 to 115 degrees. Using them too hot will kill the yeast.
Whisk the yeast into the warm water in a large mixer bowl and let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in the room-temperature water and the olive oil.
Add the mashed potatoes, salt, and 1 cup of flour at a time and mix with the paddle blade so that the dough comes together well. Using a flexible cutting sheet aids in pouring the flour in to the bowl. Always stop mixer before adding dry ingredients to avoid a cloud.
Knead with dough hook for 5 to 6 minutes until the dough is velvety, elastic, smooth, and a bit sticky. You may need to scrape the sides of the bowl.
Finish kneading by hand for 1 minute on a lightly floured bench so that the dough loses its stickiness.
Place the dough in a lightly oiled container, cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled, about an hour.
When the dough has risen, divide in half and pat each half in to a round on a peel or on a semolina-dusted baking sheet. Dimple with fingertips, oil and salt. Let rise, covered, until nearly doubled again.
Top with cheese or your choice of other toppings like olives, roasted red peppers, artichokes, pancetta, etc.
Slide dough rounds on to heated pizza stone in a 400 degree oven, or slide baking sheet on to lowest rack in oven and bake until golden brown and the edges and bottom are crispy. Spritzing the oven with a water mist in the early stages of baking aids in forming a good crust.
Friselle Pugliesi
Friselle are twice-baked, bagel-shaped Puglian savory (not sweet) biscotti-like roll.
Friselle Pugliesi
Biga:
Ingredients:
1/2 teaspoon dried yeast
1/4 cup warm water
1 1/2 cup water at room temperature
3 3/4 c unbleached bread flour
Method:
Stir the yeast into the 1/4 cup warm water and let proof for 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining water & then the flour 1 cup at a time.
Mix with a paddle blade for 3 or 4 minutes. Leave the biga in the mixing bowl. Cover with plastic wrap & let it rise at cool room temperature for 6 tp 24 hours. The starter will triple in volume & then collapse. It will be wet and very sticky when it is ready to be used. Cover and refrigerate if not using at once. To use the biga scoop out the needed amount while it is cold.
Friselle
Ingredients:
1 1/4 ts Dried yeast
1 3/4 c Warm water
2/3 c Biga Pugliese
3 3/4 c hard wheat bread flour or half and half semolina and bread flour
2 1/2 ts Salt
Method:
Stir ingredients together: dry in one bowl, wet in second bowl. Add wet to dry.
Knead on a very lightly floured board until the dough comes together.
Set in an oiled bowl cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.
Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces. Shape each one into a cylinder 8" long by rolling it on a lightly floured bench with the palms of your hands. Connect the ends forming rings about 4" in diameter.
Set each ring on a parchment or silcone pad-lined baking sheet. Cover with a towel as they are finished. Let rise until double in bulk, about an hour. While they are rising, bring a large pot of boiling water to a boil and preheat oven to 400F.
Put the friselle two or three at a time into the boiling water. Turn them over to submerge both sides but leave them for only 1 or 2 minutes in all.
Remove carefully and drain on paper towels.
Set the friselle on oiled baking sheets & bake for 20 minutes until golden and toasty.
Remove from the oven let them cool slightly and then cut in half horizontally. Set them cut side up on the baking sheets. Reduce the heat to 350F and return the friselle to the oven for 15 minutes until crisp and crunchy.
Use for bruschetta:
Finely chop a bowl of plump, sun-ripened tomatoes and set them on the table with salt, pepper, olive oil, freshly picked basil, and a large bowl of water.
Take a frisella and dip it in the bowl of water, holding it for a second or two before putting it on your plate. Slather it with the chopped tomatoes, and season them to taste with the various condiments and herbs. Enjoy, with glass of white wine.
Friselle Pugliesi
Biga:
Ingredients:
1/2 teaspoon dried yeast
1/4 cup warm water
1 1/2 cup water at room temperature
3 3/4 c unbleached bread flour
Method:
Stir the yeast into the 1/4 cup warm water and let proof for 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining water & then the flour 1 cup at a time.
Mix with a paddle blade for 3 or 4 minutes. Leave the biga in the mixing bowl. Cover with plastic wrap & let it rise at cool room temperature for 6 tp 24 hours. The starter will triple in volume & then collapse. It will be wet and very sticky when it is ready to be used. Cover and refrigerate if not using at once. To use the biga scoop out the needed amount while it is cold.
Friselle
Ingredients:
1 1/4 ts Dried yeast
1 3/4 c Warm water
2/3 c Biga Pugliese
3 3/4 c hard wheat bread flour or half and half semolina and bread flour
2 1/2 ts Salt
Method:
Stir ingredients together: dry in one bowl, wet in second bowl. Add wet to dry.
Knead on a very lightly floured board until the dough comes together.
Set in an oiled bowl cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.
Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces. Shape each one into a cylinder 8" long by rolling it on a lightly floured bench with the palms of your hands. Connect the ends forming rings about 4" in diameter.
Set each ring on a parchment or silcone pad-lined baking sheet. Cover with a towel as they are finished. Let rise until double in bulk, about an hour. While they are rising, bring a large pot of boiling water to a boil and preheat oven to 400F.
Put the friselle two or three at a time into the boiling water. Turn them over to submerge both sides but leave them for only 1 or 2 minutes in all.
Remove carefully and drain on paper towels.
Set the friselle on oiled baking sheets & bake for 20 minutes until golden and toasty.
Remove from the oven let them cool slightly and then cut in half horizontally. Set them cut side up on the baking sheets. Reduce the heat to 350F and return the friselle to the oven for 15 minutes until crisp and crunchy.
Use for bruschetta:
Finely chop a bowl of plump, sun-ripened tomatoes and set them on the table with salt, pepper, olive oil, freshly picked basil, and a large bowl of water.
Take a frisella and dip it in the bowl of water, holding it for a second or two before putting it on your plate. Slather it with the chopped tomatoes, and season them to taste with the various condiments and herbs. Enjoy, with glass of white wine.
Sunday, January 08, 2006
Scampi rant
“Scampi” is a type of shrimp or prawn in Italian so “shrimp scampi” is a redundancy. That is like saying “cheese formaggio!"
Phylum Crustacea, Malaconstracans, specifically Decapods (meaning 10 legs) includes all lobsters, crabs, shrimp and prawns. The latter two have over 2000 types!
The U.S. imports approximately 90% of the shrimp that finds it's way to the table or the bait shop (tiger prawns, whiteleg shrimp, giant prawns and blue shrimp) from countries in Latin America and Southeast Asia.
The remaining 10% of shrimp comes from the Southeast U.S. including brown shrimp, white shrimp and pink shrimp. Three other shrimp varieties (spot prawns, Northern shrimp from Newfoundland, and U.S. farmed whiteleg shrimp) are less common but available in the U. S..
But, whatever you call them, this recipe is so easy, it is a shame to pay big bucks for it in a restaurant when you can just as easily make it at home.
Scampi with Garlic Butter
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled
4 large garlic cloves, minced
Juice of one lemon
1/4 cup dry white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley
Method:
Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until barely translucent. Add the shrimp and sauté until they begin to turn pink, tossing several times. Do not let the garlic burn or you start all over with fresh garlic. Add the lemon juice and white and reduce for about 1 minute. Add the salt, pepper and parsley. Toss well; serve immediately over hot pasta.
Feeling political? Religious? A bit of both?
Please visit God Hates Shrimp for an interesting view on this yummy sea creature.
Phylum Crustacea, Malaconstracans, specifically Decapods (meaning 10 legs) includes all lobsters, crabs, shrimp and prawns. The latter two have over 2000 types!
The U.S. imports approximately 90% of the shrimp that finds it's way to the table or the bait shop (tiger prawns, whiteleg shrimp, giant prawns and blue shrimp) from countries in Latin America and Southeast Asia.
The remaining 10% of shrimp comes from the Southeast U.S. including brown shrimp, white shrimp and pink shrimp. Three other shrimp varieties (spot prawns, Northern shrimp from Newfoundland, and U.S. farmed whiteleg shrimp) are less common but available in the U. S..
But, whatever you call them, this recipe is so easy, it is a shame to pay big bucks for it in a restaurant when you can just as easily make it at home.
Scampi with Garlic Butter
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled
4 large garlic cloves, minced
Juice of one lemon
1/4 cup dry white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped fresh parsley
Method:
Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until barely translucent. Add the shrimp and sauté until they begin to turn pink, tossing several times. Do not let the garlic burn or you start all over with fresh garlic. Add the lemon juice and white and reduce for about 1 minute. Add the salt, pepper and parsley. Toss well; serve immediately over hot pasta.
Feeling political? Religious? A bit of both?
Please visit God Hates Shrimp for an interesting view on this yummy sea creature.
Focaccia
Indeed, bread is art. No matter how much kitchen chemistry you have stored in your brain, the final result comes from the experience of baking bread. It's in the way it looks, feels and kneads.
The good doctor has spurred my interest in focaccia, so I did a bit of reading this week on it's origins. Carol Field's book, Focaccia calls focaccia a 'one-dish meal, a snack, or food for a picnic or a light meal. . .served for breakfast, lunch or dinner. . . .'
The earliest beginnings of focaccia are so ancient that they cannot be traced, but the roots of any bread, especially raised flat breads like modern focaccia, are planted in the unleavened flat breads that were cooked over a fire rather than baked in an oven. Indeed, the word 'focaccia' is derived from the Latin word 'focus,' the word for fire.
Even with it's humble origins, it's greatness did not go unrecognized. It was truly a food for the gods, as the Romans offered it up as a sacrifice. While we don't offer up even a smidgeon to anyone in the pantheon of heaven, we still enjoy focaccia.
Every region of Italy has it's own focaccia recipe and Apulia does, too. First I am going to present the more common, or basic focaccia recipe we use:
Focaccia
Ingredients:
Biga
1 package active dry yeast
2/3 cup 105-115 degree warm water
1 cup all-purpose unbleached white flour (not bread flour)
Dough:
1/2 cup 105-115 degree warm water
1/3 cup dry white wine or malt beer
1/3 cup extra virgin first cold pressed olive oil
3 to 3 1/2 cups all-purpose unbleached white flour (not bread flour)
additional bench flour (I use semolina for a crunchy bottom crust)
coarse salt
I use my Kitchen Aid mixing bowl to make the biga by sprinkling the yeast on the water and when foamy, stirring in the flour using the paddle blade. I let it sit for half an hour or more, covered, until it begins to rise well. I have forgotten about it and left it for longer even so long that it has collapsed in on itself and still revived it. . .but I don't suggest that!
Continuing to use the paddle blade, I add the water, wine (or malt beer) and oil to the sponge and stir in one cup of the flour and the amount of salt you prefer. I use about a teaspoon of coarse salt (adjust the salt by the type you are using. . .they all have different degrees of saltiness). I then stir in the rest of the flour. The dough will is soft and sticky and needs to be scraped down off the sides to form the dough ball.
I scrape down the paddle and switch to the dough hook to knead for 6-8 minutes or until the dough is soft but not wet and it takes on a sheen. (You may have to add up to another 1/4 cup of flour, but remember, this is a soft dough.)
I turn out the dough, using a scraper, on to the a sheet of parchment, oil the bread and cover to rise for about an hour.
I punch down the dough after it has doubled in bulk, then line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with semolina. I pat the dough into a rectangle on the second sheet of parchment paper, leaving fingertip-dimples in the dough and let rise a second time, or transfer the dough on baking sheet, wrapped, to the refrigerator to rise for 6-8 hours. If I am making it right away, I oil the top with roasted garlic oil and let it rise until double in bulk again. If it is going to be for the evening meal or the next day, I remove the bowl from the refrigerator and let rise for 2 hours before baking.
I top the focaccia bread with just the olive oil and a little salt if I am going to use it for our favorite antipasto toppings at the table. We like rosemary and parmesan cheese if we are serving it with gravy (tomato sauce), but other toppings can be anything from artichoke hearts to olives to pancetta or roasted red peppers. There are as many toppings available as the imagination can dream up.
I preheat the oven to 425 and transfer the bread to the hot baking stone after half an hour to an hour. Well at least I did before I broke the pizza stone. Matter of fact, I have broken three since I started cooking at age seven. . . . That's their biggest draw back--they break! I don't have a pizza peel either and not because I broke it. It's just as easy to use a cookie sheet and parchment paper with a sprinkling of semolina and they store a lot more easily.
If the focaccia has risen on the baking sheet in the refrigerator, I transfer it to a warmed baking sheet and bake for 25 minutes or until the bread is golden. If I have thrown the ball of dough in to the refrigerator (it works well either way.) I pat it out on the same sheet I bake it on and let it warm and rise for a couple of hours before baking. Whatever method works best for you, remember not to put a cold baking sheet in to a hot oven. . .it's the surest way I know to warp it.
When the good doctor makes his next batch, perhaps he will add to this post. . .
The good doctor has spurred my interest in focaccia, so I did a bit of reading this week on it's origins. Carol Field's book, Focaccia calls focaccia a 'one-dish meal, a snack, or food for a picnic or a light meal. . .served for breakfast, lunch or dinner. . . .'
The earliest beginnings of focaccia are so ancient that they cannot be traced, but the roots of any bread, especially raised flat breads like modern focaccia, are planted in the unleavened flat breads that were cooked over a fire rather than baked in an oven. Indeed, the word 'focaccia' is derived from the Latin word 'focus,' the word for fire.
Even with it's humble origins, it's greatness did not go unrecognized. It was truly a food for the gods, as the Romans offered it up as a sacrifice. While we don't offer up even a smidgeon to anyone in the pantheon of heaven, we still enjoy focaccia.
Every region of Italy has it's own focaccia recipe and Apulia does, too. First I am going to present the more common, or basic focaccia recipe we use:
Focaccia
Ingredients:
Biga
1 package active dry yeast
2/3 cup 105-115 degree warm water
1 cup all-purpose unbleached white flour (not bread flour)
Dough:
1/2 cup 105-115 degree warm water
1/3 cup dry white wine or malt beer
1/3 cup extra virgin first cold pressed olive oil
3 to 3 1/2 cups all-purpose unbleached white flour (not bread flour)
additional bench flour (I use semolina for a crunchy bottom crust)
coarse salt
I use my Kitchen Aid mixing bowl to make the biga by sprinkling the yeast on the water and when foamy, stirring in the flour using the paddle blade. I let it sit for half an hour or more, covered, until it begins to rise well. I have forgotten about it and left it for longer even so long that it has collapsed in on itself and still revived it. . .but I don't suggest that!
Continuing to use the paddle blade, I add the water, wine (or malt beer) and oil to the sponge and stir in one cup of the flour and the amount of salt you prefer. I use about a teaspoon of coarse salt (adjust the salt by the type you are using. . .they all have different degrees of saltiness). I then stir in the rest of the flour. The dough will is soft and sticky and needs to be scraped down off the sides to form the dough ball.
I scrape down the paddle and switch to the dough hook to knead for 6-8 minutes or until the dough is soft but not wet and it takes on a sheen. (You may have to add up to another 1/4 cup of flour, but remember, this is a soft dough.)
I turn out the dough, using a scraper, on to the a sheet of parchment, oil the bread and cover to rise for about an hour.
I punch down the dough after it has doubled in bulk, then line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with semolina. I pat the dough into a rectangle on the second sheet of parchment paper, leaving fingertip-dimples in the dough and let rise a second time, or transfer the dough on baking sheet, wrapped, to the refrigerator to rise for 6-8 hours. If I am making it right away, I oil the top with roasted garlic oil and let it rise until double in bulk again. If it is going to be for the evening meal or the next day, I remove the bowl from the refrigerator and let rise for 2 hours before baking.
I top the focaccia bread with just the olive oil and a little salt if I am going to use it for our favorite antipasto toppings at the table. We like rosemary and parmesan cheese if we are serving it with gravy (tomato sauce), but other toppings can be anything from artichoke hearts to olives to pancetta or roasted red peppers. There are as many toppings available as the imagination can dream up.
I preheat the oven to 425 and transfer the bread to the hot baking stone after half an hour to an hour. Well at least I did before I broke the pizza stone. Matter of fact, I have broken three since I started cooking at age seven. . . . That's their biggest draw back--they break! I don't have a pizza peel either and not because I broke it. It's just as easy to use a cookie sheet and parchment paper with a sprinkling of semolina and they store a lot more easily.
If the focaccia has risen on the baking sheet in the refrigerator, I transfer it to a warmed baking sheet and bake for 25 minutes or until the bread is golden. If I have thrown the ball of dough in to the refrigerator (it works well either way.) I pat it out on the same sheet I bake it on and let it warm and rise for a couple of hours before baking. Whatever method works best for you, remember not to put a cold baking sheet in to a hot oven. . .it's the surest way I know to warp it.
When the good doctor makes his next batch, perhaps he will add to this post. . .
Tuesday, January 03, 2006
Bread Is Art
All this talk about the chemistry of breadmaking makes me wish I had more time to make the stuff. Or the patience to do it right. More often than not, I wing it. For Christmas I wanted to make as much bread as I had supplies for but I only had one envelope of instant yeast (one of those triple-pouches). So I read the directions on the back (!) to see how much water you would use with each packet, I multiplied by three, and filled a large measuring cup with that amount. Then I started mixing -- figuring I'd add flour until it felt right. Yeah, some salt. And a little bit of olive oil. That was it.
The hooks on our mixer were smoking... figuratively of course. In the old days I'd knead it out myself. That was then; this is now.
I spread out a couple of focaccia pans that day. They rose, they baked, and they came out OK. But as I mentioned several days ago, it was the portion of dough that I tossed in the icebox for the next day that really came together nicely.
From now on, overnight refrigeration is will be standard operating procedure for all my focaccia exploits.
The hooks on our mixer were smoking... figuratively of course. In the old days I'd knead it out myself. That was then; this is now.
I spread out a couple of focaccia pans that day. They rose, they baked, and they came out OK. But as I mentioned several days ago, it was the portion of dough that I tossed in the icebox for the next day that really came together nicely.
From now on, overnight refrigeration is will be standard operating procedure for all my focaccia exploits.
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